There’s a particular kind of optimism involved in packing a tent you haven’t touched in five years and assuming it will be fine.
We packed everything: camera, dog, camping gear. We left home later than planned, as always. There was last-minute video editing. There is always last-minute video editing.
The Road to El Páramo
We live in Barichara, so the drive to El Páramo is about 90 minutes total: 40 to San Gil, then another 30 to El Páramo, then twenty more minutes to reach Posada Almendra. That last stretch is unpaved, but the road is in decent shape. No need to worry about it.
The road climbs. The view opens up. You start to understand why people make the trip.
Posada Almendra is a family ranch, a finca, that has been in the same family for generations. The owner met us at the entrance and walked us through the whole story. How she spent summers there as a girl. How her father built most of it with his own hands, using natural materials: earth, stone, wood, cane. What’s called bioconstrucción. How they’re continuing that now, slowly, with care.
It’s the kind of origin story that makes you feel like you’re staying somewhere real.
Coffee Trees, Cacao, and a Very Honest Tour
She took us on a tour of the property. Coffee trees. Cacao trees. Ecological trails winding through the land. A mountain view that earns the drive on its own.
They grow their own coffee. You can taste the difference. It’s not a marketing claim, it’s just obvious when you try it.
The area is also known for birdwatching. The elevation and surrounding forest make it good habitat, and it’s the kind of place where you’ll hear birds before you see them.
While we were walking around, we noticed the light was fading fast. Mountain evenings don’t give you much warning.
The Tent Mistake
We moved quickly. Tent up, gear in, done. Or so we thought.
Here’s the thing about camping on top of a large rock: the rock is still there when you lie down. I spent the night with a stone pressing into my side and the tent slightly tilted, which meant I was quietly sliding downhill for eight hours. We were three in that tent: me, my partner, and the dog. Only one of us seemed unbothered.
Don’t pitch your tent on a rock. This is the advice.
Dinner, Fire, and a Triple Portion of Birthday Ice Cream
Dinner was another thing entirely.
They cooked for us and it felt like every dish was made by someone who actually cared. That sounds like an obvious thing. Of course they care, it’s their place. But you notice when it’s real.
It was my birthday. I received a triple portion of ice cream with cacao. I did not complain.
We opened a bottle of local wine. Fred and Lao, who were with us, sat around the fire. We talked for a long time. The kind of evening that doesn’t need a plan.
Morning: Breakfast and the Natural Pool
The next morning, we woke up slow, had an incredible breakfast, and jumped in the natural pool.
The water was cold and clean. The mountains were right there. The mosquitoes were also right there. We got bitten everywhere. But that’s the deal.
It’s worth it.
On the Way Back: The Chorizo Stop
We stopped in Valle de San José on the way home. It’s apparently known for its chorizo.
We tried it. It was fine. Nothing to write home about.
Some things are worth stopping for. The chorizo is not one of them. Or maybe we hit the wrong spot. Either way, we drove home full and happy, which is the only thing that actually matters.
Is Posada Almendra Worth the Trip?
Yes. Unambiguously.
It’s not a polished eco-lodge. It’s not a boutique hotel with a curated aesthetic. It’s a working family ranch that opens its doors to people who want to sleep outside, eat real food, and look at mountains for a while.
If camping isn’t your thing, they have six cabins, modest, with outdoor showers, but genuinely charming. And if the weather turns, there’s a caney where you can pitch your tent under cover and stay dry. They’ve thought about it.
Pricing, as of early 2026: around 30,000 COP per tent for a camping spot, and around 200,000 COP per night for a cabin. Reasonable for what you get.
From Barichara, the drive takes about 90 minutes. From San Gil, closer to 45. You don’t need a 4×4. You don’t need to plan very far ahead.
If you have an extra day, the area around El Páramo has more to offer. The Juan Curí waterfalls are nearby and worth the detour.
You do need to check where you’re pitching your tent.
A big thanks to our friends @lauragribero and @fredysc.rec for showing us this place and inviting us along.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is Posada Almendra?
Posada Almendra is a rural family stay near El Páramo, Santander, Colombia. From San Gil, the drive takes roughly 45 to 50 minutes. From Barichara, about 90 minutes total. Find them on Instagram at @almendraposadac.
Is Posada Almendra good for camping?
Yes, there are several camping spots with a stunning mountain view. If it rains, you can set up under the caney (a covered open-air structure) and stay dry. The ground is uneven in spots, so scout before you pitch. Nights get cold, so bring layers. Mosquitoes are present near the natural pool, especially in the morning.
What is El Páramo near San Gil?
El Páramo is a small town in the Santander department of Colombia, about 30 minutes from San Gil. The landscape is green, elevated, and quiet. It sees far fewer visitors than San Gil itself, which is part of the appeal.
What do they serve at Posada Almendra?
They offer meals prepared on-site using local ingredients, including coffee and cacao grown on the property. Dinner and breakfast are available for guests. The food feels homemade because it is.
How far is El Páramo from Barichara?
El Páramo is about 90 minutes from Barichara: 40 minutes to San Gil, then another 30 to El Páramo, then 15 to 20 minutes more to Posada Almendra. It’s a half-day trip if you go direct, or a comfortable overnight if you stay.